{"id":27140,"date":"2022-10-21T09:23:34","date_gmt":"2022-10-21T07:23:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bake-street.com\/?p=27140"},"modified":"2026-04-08T12:25:07","modified_gmt":"2026-04-08T10:25:07","slug":"lechuguino-bread-traditional-from-valladolid","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bake-street.com\/en\/lechuguino-bread-traditional-from-valladolid\/","title":{"rendered":"Lechuguino Bread, traditional from Valladolid"},"content":{"rendered":"

This summer I was lucky enough to unexpectedly get my hands on a Lechuguino Bread<\/strong>. To begin with, the name alone fascinated me. So rustic and so old-fashioned, it touched my heart. Then its appearance, very striking, in which you could appreciate that there was a very dedicated manual work behind it and, surely, with history. Finally, and most importantly, its flavor, aroma and texture. It is impossible not to fall in love.<\/p>\n

I knew that as soon as possible, because we were on vacation, I would start looking for information about it and how to make it at home. I have to say that I have searched a lot for the characteristic stamp of this bread without success. Hence I had to adapt its design to something more homemade. Forgive me in advance for those of you who are more traditional. But, we are not misguided because this bread, originally, was marked with an old key.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

Traditional bread from Valladolid, Spain.<\/h2>\n

Before the bread tormentors arrived, those who created breads made with low quality flours, with hardly any flavor or with a short shelf life due to an abusive use of yeast, there was a culture of bread<\/strong> in which the love and passion of those who made it could be appreciated<\/strong>. Hours of dedication and care were dedicated to a product that, on a daily basis, was part of every household’s table. People could taste a product full of love.<\/p>\n

Juan Olivares<\/em>, the last traditional baker in Valladolid, had his oven and his home in the same place as his grandparents, but after his retirement there was no one to take over his bakery. However, we inherited a rich emotional heritage, not only of bread, but also of many traditional sweets. This gastronomic heritage was carried on for several generations.<\/p>\n

Liso, candeal, bollos leche, tortas de aceite o an\u00eds, las tortas de coscar\u00f3n, wonderful breads that served as a lunch box for omelettes with peppers, steaks…<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

The current times have changed the desire to eat for the fear of getting fat, in addition to the appearance of prejudices that made bread the culprit of overweight and bad eating habits. Without forgetting false myths that brought the rush in its manufacture.<\/p>\n

\"Pan <\/picture><\/div>\n

In this context, the Provincial Association of Bread Manufacturers and Expenders of Valladolid was born in 1978.<\/h3>\n

This was created with the need to ensure the quality and identity of the historical gastronomic heritage<\/strong> that had always given fame and prestige to the province, as evidenced by written testimonies since the ninth century.\u00a0 In addition to being worthy of exporting in the 16th century its elaboration process, which served as an example and model, with the pioneering use of the “sobadera” or “rolos” machine<\/strong> for its preparation.<\/p>\n

The Ordinances in force from 1549 to 1886, as well as later regulations, testify to the care imposed by the authorities for centuries on wheat, flour and bread. Production, weight, formats and prices were controlled even after the government ended the rationing imposed by the Civil War in 1952. This highlighted the strategic importance of a sector that was not completely liberalized until 1989.<\/p>\n

This market freedom gave rise to an unprecedented crisis due to the unfortunate confluence of changes in eating habits and competition based on lower prices, with the consequent drop in product quality.<\/p>\n

In 2001, the Bread of Valladolid Guarantee Brand<\/strong> began to be developed and was finally approved in September 2004. This process was the result of years of hard work, becoming the First Bread Guarantee Mark in Europe<\/strong> and thus providing a certified and endorsed quality granted<\/strong> for the first time to a staple consumer product that is also typically vallisoletano (<\/strong><\/em>from Valladolid<\/strong>)<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n

Pan Lechuguino.<\/h2>\n

Lechuguino is a Spanish variety of bread similar in appearance to a boule<\/em>, round, but flat and with a stamped decoration reminiscent of a flower or rosette. This variety of bread is typical of the Castilian provinces of Valladolid and Palencia (Spain). It is made with bread flour, approximately W=130, water, salt and yeast or sourdough. Its weight can be around 250-500 g.<\/p>\n

It is characterized by a thin crust, golden and shiny, very soft to the touch, slightly crunchy and with a white, tight, refined and delicate crumb. It is undoubtedly the most popular variety of bread from Valladolid.<\/p>\n

The Royal Academy defines lechuguino<\/em> as “A young person who is very composed and rigorously follows fashion”.<\/h3>\n

In common parlance, lechuguino<\/strong> <\/em>is a bread that takes great care of its appearance<\/strong>, hence the name of the bread. The decoration of lechuguino bread can vary with different geometric motifs; in a homemade way, its drawings are made using a spoon or hoop.<\/p>\n

However, the artisan bakeries of Valladolid maintain the traditional method of marking the scalloped profile, using bread stamps.<\/p>\n

The quality of this bread derives from the use of very good quality flours. As early as 1513, the best wheat grains (white, broken, with a floury tendency and from the last harvest) were reserved for making the “lechuguino” bread.<\/p>\n

According to Antonio Gimeno G\u00f3mez<\/em>, in El pan de Valladolid<\/em>;<\/p>\n

“Without any artifice [bakers] managed to implement a type of bread known by the name of lechuguino, in which white flour takes precedence, without the need to resort to corn, buttermilk or even the addition of boiled potato, ingredients used in other regions to enhance the flavor of this food.”<\/em><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

It seems that the lechuguino bread is on its way to extinction since its elaboration process requires skill and not all bakers are willing to make it. It is one of the 15 bread recipes that the Spanish Confederation of Bakery Organizations (CEOPAN)<\/strong> pointed out as necessary in a recovery plan<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

Nowadays, it is common to use other types of non-candeal flours to make lechuguino, since the cultivation of candeal wheat is disappearing. In my case, I make use of two different types of flour to make this bread, since I could not find candeal flour.<\/p>\n

Characteristics of Valladolid bread.<\/h2>\n
    \n
  • It must be made with flour milled in flour mills of Castilla y Le\u00f3n<\/em>, complying with defined characteristics. One of the recommended flour mills is Harina Tradicional Zamorana<\/strong><\/em>, a Guarantee Mark that certifies the quality, composition, geographic origin, technical conditions and elaboration method of its flours.<\/li>\n
  • A mixture with rye is used, in rustic and riche.<\/li>\n
  • It must be elaborated with sourdough and carried out with long fermentations.<\/li>\n
  • It must bear its stamp on the dough and be labeled and numbered, given that it belongs to a controlled production.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    Types of Bread from Valladolid.<\/h2>\n

    Candeal: lechuguino, “de canteros”, “de cuadros” and “de<\/span> polea<\/span>“.<\/em><\/p>\n

    Lechuguino<\/em> bread<\/strong> is the bread of Valladolid par excellence. It is round, flattened, with a very white and uniform crumb, with a pattern of concentric circles that used to be made by hand with the help of the eye of those old canutillo keys. Its name comes from its neat appearance like that of the elegant gentlemen of the time.<\/p>\n

    Canteros<\/em> breads<\/strong> and those of four or eight quarrymen, differ from the lechuguino by their aspect, in spite of using the same dough to be carried out. These breads are made by making cuts on the surface.<\/p>\n

    Polea<\/em> or pulley bread<\/strong> is so called because of the lateral cut that surrounds it, giving it a shape similar to a pulley. Currently, it is not very easy to find unless it is made to order.<\/p>\n

    Semi candeales: Fabiola, tradicional o de picos.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

    La Fabiola<\/strong><\/em>, was created in 1962 and named in honor of Queen Fabiola<\/strong>, who filled the pages of the magazines of the time. Fabiola conquers hearts in the territories where it makes its way since the Manrique family, originally from Palencia, put it on the tables of Valladolid.<\/p>\n

    Flama: r\u00fastica y riche.<\/span><\/em><\/p>\n

    Pan de flama<\/strong><\/em> requires less time and work than candeal bread, but its result is equally extraordinary if it is well done. In fact, “rich” is the translation of the French word “riche” by which it is known.<\/p>\n